Spaghetti con Barba di Frate

Yes, indeed spaghetti with monk's beard.

Last year I was asked if I would translate a cookbook from German to English. As I wasn't working full time and you all know how I feel about food the answer was pretty obvious to me. It was a wonderful experience and I was already enamored by Donatella Maranta's work, but I have come to an even higher appreciation for her cookbook Rule of Pi.

The cookbook has now been published as an ebook in English and I can't help but feel a little proud to see the (virtual) product of something I helped make.... Go have a look here. 

Two weeks ago I ventured out to the farmer's market for the first time in a very long time and came away as inspired and excited as always. I had found an ingredient that Donatella wrote of with near reverence and I was very enthousiastic to try it out. Barba di frate or monksbeard is a vegetable I would most liken to samphire or "Meeresbohne" as it is sold here.

This dish from Donatella is light, easy to make and was very well received by the friend who came for dinner.

Here is the recipe, with permission, in the words of the inventor herself:

Barba di frata – monks beard – grows on sandy ground near the ocean.

Whenever I see these green bundles I always imagine how the wind moves the plants in gentle waves and makes them glint silver in the sunlight. Salty air and the scent of algae.

One bunch will serve 4 people. Remove the reddish roots and carefully wash the barba di frate.

Fry 1 cm strips of streaky bacon until crisp and put to one side. Pluck the leaves off about three sprigs of flat leaved parsley. It shouldn’t be too much as you only want to add a hint of fragrance.

Cook your spaghetti all dente. Add the barba for the last 3 minutes of cooking time.

Keep back one cup of pasta water!

Drain the spaghetti and the barba and add them into a preheated serving bowl with a few knobs of butter and some good olive oil. Add the cooking water slowly and mix well. Sprinkle over your parsley and the bacon.

This goes well with lots of Parmesan. And if once again I have some ricotta salata I am truly in seventh heaven. 

There you go. It couldn't be easier or tastier. And if you can't find the monksbeard, do give it a try with samphire!

PS: It was so delicious I made myself the exact same thing the next evening! ;-)

 

No cooking doesn't mean no eating...

A slice of toasted "Zopf"
A hint of cold butter and mustard
A handful of delicate arugula leaves, picked ten minutes ago from the pot and left to crisp up in cold water
A couple of slices of prosciutto di Parma
Some shavings of parmigiano reggiano

Sometimes it can be that simple...

Simple Carbonara

Well, what do you cook when you get home ravenously hungry?
This is one of my favorite sauces of all times and I have long ago given up ordering it at restaurants... they just don't measure up to the homemade stuff.

I don't normally use any cream in it. I know this to be a break from traditions that will have purists shaking their heads. But try before you judge.
I have added a splash of cream or a bit of cream cheese when I wanted it (aka I was even hungrier than normal).



Ingredients per person:
100-150 gr of semolina wheat pasta (personal favorite is linguine)
ca. 3 rashers of streaky bacon, cut into pieces
1 egg yolk
a handful of freshly grated parmesan
black pepper to taste

1. First of all, put on your water for the pasta and add salt when it comes to the boil. Put in your pasta.
2. Fry your bacon on a medium heat until crispy.
3. When your pasta is almost done, mix the egg yolk, the parmesan and three to four tablespoons of the pasta water together well. The pasta water adds salt and will help the thicken the mixture with the egg yolk.
4. When your pasta is just cooked reserve a cup of the water and drain the rest. Immediately return the pasta to the still warm pan, add the eggy mixture, mix well, cover and let it sit for about ten seconds. If the pasta is too dry, add a splash of the reserved cooking water and mix again.
5. Mix again, add black pepper to taste and put onto a serving platter. Top with the fried bacon.

This is a sauce that doesn't take longer to make than the pasta takes to cook. My favorite kind!

Hollandaise sauce and all its merits

I remember having a lively discussion with my aunt about all the different ways to enjoy Hollandaise Sauce; on steamed asparagus, with roast beef (granted, this would more likely be its cousin the Sauce Bearnaise), over poached eggs for breakfast or cold with hard boiled eggs at Easter Brunch. (It's a family tradition, don't ask.)

She added as an afterthought, that a friend of hers had confessed to have the habit of eating leftovers of it as pasta sauce.... We both tried picturing this and were not at all enamored of the idea. I should have made a picture of the disgusted faces.

Well, I am here to repent and recant. I had made a lemon foam sauce to go with pork chops the night before. It was simply a mixture of vegetable stock, two eggs and the juice and zest of half a lime whisked and heated over a double boiler. When this was quite firm a small amount of cold butter (50 gr.) was cut into pieces and stirred into the mixture.
This is a light version of a Hollandaise Sauce.

At lunch the next day I cooked my favorite pasta (linguine, for the record) and added a good handful of grated parmesan and some more lemon juice to the cup of leftover lime sauce.


I drained the pasta, but not too dry. The residual heat of the pasta ensures the sauce, the cheese and the pasta water come together beautifully. This is a silky, rich indulgence. I will surely make this again one day.